soldering gun/iron mantenace tricks?

[captain bob]

are there any tricks to soldering iron or gun maintenance?
should I dip the tip into vinegar or something?

after tightening the screws on a cheap 30w iron.
I sanded the tip to get all the black off (is this carbon?)
I dipped it in nokorode (flux)

It got hot reasonably fast, but the solder would not stick to it
before it was covered in black again. I can melt the solder into a
ball sitting on a block of wood, but it will not coat the tip!

should I use something other than wood as a working surface? ceramic
tile?
do I need a new jar of nokorode?

what is the secret ingredient or technique?

thanks

[Fred B. McGalliard]

You may have inadvertently negated the effect of the flux by letting the
iron heat up after fluxing. Dip the HOT iron tip in flux and the flux will
remove the oxide that tends to grow there. Immediately, before the oxide can
grow back, put the solder on it. If the solder still will not wet it, the
flux may be too weak, or the iron tip may be some kind of plating with a
nickel sub plate. The nickel subplate will not wet easily. Get a new tip.

Post by captain bob
are there any tricks to soldering iron or gun maintenance?
should I dip the tip into vinegar or something?
after tightening the screws on a cheap 30w iron.
I sanded the tip to get all the black off (is this carbon?)
I dipped it in nokorode (flux)
It got hot reasonably fast, but the solder would not stick to it
before it was covered in black again. I can melt the solder into a
ball sitting on a block of wood, but it will not coat the tip!
should I use something other than wood as a working surface? ceramic
tile?
do I need a new jar of nokorode?
what is the secret ingredient or technique?
thanks

[captain bob]

I wrote that out of order
I did sand/file it,
then heat it
then dip it in the flux (which is getting old)
I think you may be right about the flux being weak, I remember the
nokorode worked great when new.

I do have a HAKKO blue soldering iron that has a shiny tip that is
easy to clean, and an old weller gun that is ok when it works.

thanks

On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 17:38:05 GMT, "Fred B. McGalliard"

Post by Fred B. McGalliard
You may have inadvertently negated the effect of the flux by letting the
iron heat up after fluxing. Dip the HOT iron tip in flux and the flux will
remove the oxide that tends to grow there. Immediately, before the oxide can
grow back, put the solder on it. If the solder still will not wet it, the
flux may be too weak, or the iron tip may be some kind of plating with a
nickel sub plate. The nickel subplate will not wet easily. Get a new tip.

Post by captain bob
are there any tricks to soldering iron or gun maintenance?
should I dip the tip into vinegar or something?
after tightening the screws on a cheap 30w iron.
I sanded the tip to get all the black off (is this carbon?)
I dipped it in nokorode (flux)
It got hot reasonably fast, but the solder would not stick to it
before it was covered in black again. I can melt the solder into a
ball sitting on a block of wood, but it will not coat the tip!
should I use something other than wood as a working surface? ceramic
tile?
do I need a new jar of nokorode?
what is the secret ingredient or technique?
thanks

[funkbastler]

On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 18:24:05 GMT, captain bob

Post by captain bob
I wrote that out of order
I did sand/file it,
then heat it
then dip it in the flux (which is getting old)
I think you may be right about the flux being weak, I remember the
nokorode worked great when new.

Hmmmm..... I rarely (almost never) use any flux except that which
is in 'rosin core' solder.

File/sand/scrape the tip till it's shiny (and hopefully it's a
copper-colored shiny). Plug it in or turn it on, and hold the
solder to the tip so that the solder melts immediately when the
tip gets hot enough, and thouroughly tin the tip.

Works for me.

-fb-

[Bob M.]

It's likely that the tip was coated with something that you've now
sanded/filed off, getting you down to bare metal, which may not last as long
or even let itself be "tinned".

Depending on the cost, I'd start with a brand new tip and put the sandpaper
and file far away from it. Then find a piece of fine steel wool and keep
that nearby. When you're done using the soldering iron or gun, unplug or
turn it off and lightly wipe the tip clean. I do this while holding it over
a metal garbage can. Then put it down and let it cool off. Should have a
very thin haze on it when you use it next time, but you can repeat the steel
wool process to shine it back up. That has worked for me for over 30 years.

Bob M.
======

Post by captain bob
I wrote that out of order
I did sand/file it,
then heat it
then dip it in the flux (which is getting old)
I think you may be right about the flux being weak, I remember the
nokorode worked great when new.
I do have a HAKKO blue soldering iron that has a shiny tip that is
easy to clean, and an old weller gun that is ok when it works.
thanks
On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 17:38:05 GMT, "Fred B. McGalliard"

Post by Fred B. McGalliard
You may have inadvertently negated the effect of the flux by letting the
iron heat up after fluxing. Dip the HOT iron tip in flux and the flux will
remove the oxide that tends to grow there. Immediately, before the oxide can
grow back, put the solder on it. If the solder still will not wet it, the
flux may be too weak, or the iron tip may be some kind of plating with a
nickel sub plate. The nickel subplate will not wet easily. Get a new tip.

Post by captain bob
are there any tricks to soldering iron or gun maintenance?
should I dip the tip into vinegar or something?
after tightening the screws on a cheap 30w iron.
I sanded the tip to get all the black off (is this carbon?)
I dipped it in nokorode (flux)
It got hot reasonably fast, but the solder would not stick to it
before it was covered in black again. I can melt the solder into a
ball sitting on a block of wood, but it will not coat the tip!
should I use something other than wood as a working surface? ceramic
tile?
do I need a new jar of nokorode?
what is the secret ingredient or technique?
thanks

[MaxAluminum]

Post by Bob M.
It's likely that the tip was coated with something that you've now
sanded/filed off, getting you down to bare metal, which may not last as long
or even let itself be "tinned".
Depending on the cost, I'd start with a brand new tip and put the sandpaper
and file far away from it. Then find a piece of fine steel wool and keep
that nearby. When you're done using the soldering iron or gun, unplug or
turn it off and lightly wipe the tip clean. I do this while holding it over
a metal garbage can. Then put it down and let it cool off. Should have a
very thin haze on it when you use it next time, but you can repeat the steel
wool process to shine it back up. That has worked for me for over 30 years.
Bob M.
======

Post by captain bob
I wrote that out of order
I did sand/file it,
then heat it
then dip it in the flux (which is getting old)
I think you may be right about the flux being weak, I remember the
nokorode worked great when new.
I do have a HAKKO blue soldering iron that has a shiny tip that is
easy to clean, and an old weller gun that is ok when it works.
thanks
On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 17:38:05 GMT, "Fred B. McGalliard"

Post by Fred B. McGalliard
You may have inadvertently negated the effect of the flux by letting the
iron heat up after fluxing. Dip the HOT iron tip in flux and the flux

will

Post by captain bob

Post by Fred B. McGalliard
remove the oxide that tends to grow there. Immediately, before the oxide

can

Post by captain bob

Post by Fred B. McGalliard
grow back, put the solder on it. If the solder still will not wet it, the
flux may be too weak, or the iron tip may be some kind of plating with a
nickel sub plate. The nickel subplate will not wet easily. Get a new tip.

Post by captain bob
are there any tricks to soldering iron or gun maintenance?
should I dip the tip into vinegar or something?
after tightening the screws on a cheap 30w iron.
I sanded the tip to get all the black off (is this carbon?)
I dipped it in nokorode (flux)
It got hot reasonably fast, but the solder would not stick to it
before it was covered in black again. I can melt the solder into a
ball sitting on a block of wood, but it will not coat the tip!
should I use something other than wood as a working surface? ceramic
tile?
do I need a new jar of nokorode?
what is the secret ingredient or technique?
thanks

Here's my tips for what it's worth. I keep a small jar (former nail
polish) with a brush containing phosphoric acid (chrome wheel cleaner)
on my bench. I use that to clean copper including preparing a new
soldering tip. I have used it to clean badly oxidized wire, but of
course you need to make sure it's off when done or you can have later
failure.
I make tips for the soldering guns from solid copper grouding wire of
various gauges. I cut a piece, perhaps 6 inches. Then I flatten the
middle part with a hammer and bend it to the proper shape and trim the
ends to length. This costs virtually nothing. For real fine work you
can use tiny gauge and a small gun.
The soldering guns with the bent tips that fit in a hole and have a
nut that tightens down can sometimes lack proper contact in that area,
which causes long heating times and poor performance. I have tried
mounting the tips on the side of the electrodes by using small hose
clamps. This works very well. On other guns I have drilled straight
down the electrode and then cross drilled and tapped screw holes so I
can simply push a new tip in and tighten the screws.

[funkbastler]

Post by MaxAluminum
Here's my tips for what it's worth. I keep a small jar (former nail
polish) with a brush containing phosphoric acid (chrome wheel cleaner)
on my bench. I use that to clean copper including preparing a new
soldering tip. I have used it to clean badly oxidized wire, but of
course you need to make sure it's off when done or you can have later
failure.

Just as a matter of principle, I don't allow acid of any sort (flux,
etc, in the shop.

Post by MaxAluminum
I make tips for the soldering guns from solid copper grouding wire of
various gauges. I cut a piece, perhaps 6 inches. Then I flatten the
middle part with a hammer and bend it to the proper shape and trim the
ends to length. This costs virtually nothing. For real fine work you
can use tiny gauge and a small gun.

Same here, except I bend it first, then pound the tip a bit to
flatten it (I'm not convinced that's even necessary).

Post by MaxAluminum
The soldering guns with the bent tips that fit in a hole and have a
nut that tightens down can sometimes lack proper contact in that area,
which causes long heating times and poor performance. I have tried
mounting the tips on the side of the electrodes by using small hose
clamps. This works very well. On other guns I have drilled straight
down the electrode and then cross drilled and tapped screw holes so I
can simply push a new tip in and tighten the screws.

When heating time starts to get long, just loosen and re-torque the
nuts.

-fb-

[captain bob]

thanks for the good advice about steel wool, phosphoric acid, and how
to make new tips, I have a bunch of 12 and 14 gauge romex.

thanks

On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 15:52:57 GMT, captain bob

Post by captain bob
are there any tricks to soldering iron or gun maintenance?
should I dip the tip into vinegar or something?
after tightening the screws on a cheap 30w iron.
I sanded the tip to get all the black off (is this carbon?)
I dipped it in nokorode (flux)
It got hot reasonably fast, but the solder would not stick to it
before it was covered in black again. I can melt the solder into a
ball sitting on a block of wood, but it will not coat the tip!
should I use something other than wood as a working surface? ceramic
tile?
do I need a new jar of nokorode?
what is the secret ingredient or technique?
thanks

[Mitch Dickson]

Here is the "secret". You have ruined your tip, go get a new one! Now when
you install it. Plug it in and get the solder. Tin it as it gets hot the
first time! Keep rubbing the solder till it gets hot enough to melt it.
When you get the tip tinned, if you are in the habit of cleaning it on a
wet sponge while using it, rewet the tip before you put it back in the
holder. In fact it is better to clean it as you pick it up to use it and
always put it in the holder wet (with solder that is).

Before you turn it off make sure the tip is saturated wet with fresh solder.
Then after it cools, it will always come right back and you will have no
"black stuff" on your tip. A quick wipe on a wet sponge and a fresh wetting
and your right back in business.

C YA

Mitch

--
"Come by and sit a spell with me at www.volstate.net/~mitch/ "

Post by captain bob
are there any tricks to soldering iron or gun maintenance?
should I dip the tip into vinegar or something?
after tightening the screws on a cheap 30w iron.
I sanded the tip to get all the black off (is this carbon?)
I dipped it in nokorode (flux)
It got hot reasonably fast, but the solder would not stick to it
before it was covered in black again. I can melt the solder into a
ball sitting on a block of wood, but it will not coat the tip!
should I use something other than wood as a working surface? ceramic
tile?
do I need a new jar of nokorode?
what is the secret ingredient or technique?
thanks